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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.